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Author Archives: nancymn

About nancymn

I am not a professional chocolatier, baker or retailer. I'm just someone who loves the good stuff, and is tired of seeing too much of the cheap stuff passing for good enough.

China Wants Our Chocolate?

If you’ve been paying attention to the business news in any publication, blog or newscast, you know that in terms of consumerism, China is big. And China is getting bigger. In a country of 1.3 billion people, there are now over one million millionaires, and they like the good life. They play golf, maintain multiple bank accounts, buy electronics and fine jewelry and travel internationally. Oh, and they are interested in chocolate. Not ravenously, obsessively interested just yet. But it’s coming. The signs are there, including the World Chocolate Wonderland in Shanghai, opened in 2011, where everything from Ming-era vases to the Qin Shi Huang Terra Cotta Army is crafted in chocolate,

Lawrence Allen, a business leader, author and former executive with both Hershey and Nestlé, wrote a fascinating book on chocolate and the Chinese; specifically, the almost limitless market offered in this vast country versus how to market a product so loved in so much of the rest of the world to a population virtually unaware of its existence until the mid 1990s. The book, Chocolate Fortunes: The Battle for the Hearts, Minds and Wallets of China’s Consumers (AMACOM, 2009) is not merely how the “Big Five” confectioners brought their products to Chinese consumers, who are certainly an eager and interested population. It’s about formulating new products to cater to their specific tastes, managing the minutiae of government regulations, building and staffing new factories, distribution strategies, pricing and ultimately learning (or not) that in order to manage expectations in such a huge new market, the old strategies were often of little or no use. It was not simply a matter of throwing a big-money, mass marketing campaign out there, hoping it would stick with consumers. China is not just big, it’s changing very fast, as Allen reminds us:

Despite China’s radical transformation over the past three decades, it is still a work in progress. In the last few decades there has been a historic mass economic migration in terms of consumer power that has made hundreds of millions of Chinese consumers physically, culturally, and financially accessible to multinational companies. As China’s distribution infrastructure and quality retail environments continue to penetrate ever deeper into the country, with each new air-conditioned supermarket that opens, tens of thousands of people will suddenly have access to chocolate for the first time. As this process continues, even if 20 million of China’s near billion inaccessible consumers emerge each year to become accessible consumers, it will take another half-century for all of China’s citizens to make this passage.”

If you want to find out more about where chocolate is (literally) going next, Allen’s book charts that path. He keeps the technical and economic jargon simple and tells the story from an insider’s view, with an eye towards keeping the reader who loves all things either chocolate or Chinese interested.

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And speaking of where chocolate has been: two more from my Canadian stash:

72% Rogers Darker Chocolate: “Darker” meaning darker than some of the other bars in their line. This is pure Canadian kitsch, from the raised maple leaf on alternating squares to the fact that it’s made in Canada. It’s a very sweet bar (sugar is the second ingredient) with good snap  and a somewhat acidic finish. It’s not life-changing, but it is a respectable bar.

Dolfin 70%: This bar from Belgium isn’t just contained in the usual rip-open plastic. It’s encased in a classy envelope-style plastic wrap as well. Presentation means everything and takes nothing away from this slightly bitter beauty, which hits all the right notes of plum, citrus and earth.

 

 

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Toronto Travel: Record-Breaking Twenty Bars!

Chocolate on top of chocolate: taking a hot cocoa break at Soma Chocolatier, Toronto.

Chocolate on top of chocolate: taking a hot cocoa break at Soma Chocolatier, Toronto.

And you thought starting this blog with 19 chocolate bars from New York City was a little absurd. I brought home 20 bars from Toronto.

Talk about leaving no bean behind.

We did a lot of walking in our week away. Between the poutine, the peameal bacon (neither of which I was overly fond of), the pastries (which were excellent, thanks to the many small French bakeries) and the food of a dozen ethnic neighborhoods, we had no choice. Toronto boasts a considerable immigrant population, with more than half its residents born outside of Canada, and 20 percent of all of Canada’s immigrants residing here. Over 140 different languages are spoken in Toronto, and the city’s varied cuisines reflect the newcomers’ tastes. Luckily for the chocophile, this means never having trouble finding a new or favorite dessert, bar or beverage. I found new-to-me brands in upscale markets, in grocery and drug stores and in specialty shops such as bookstores and the outrageous Soma Chocolatier, a spot that came highly recommended, and turned out to be a high point of the trip. I’ll be reviewing them over the next few months, starting with two bars:

Valrhona Abinao Puissant & Tannique ((Powerful and Tannic) 85%: The box is dark. The wrapper inside the box is dark. The second you open the box, you smell the darkness. Powerful, indeed. And you are drawn to this bar, done as well as everything Valrhona does. It’s rich, strong, not as bitter as you would think 85% would be. Fruity and woody with a perfect balance of cacao and sugar.

Camino Fair Trade Organic 55%: This ought to be better, given that it’s from Switzerland and despite the fact that it’s organic. It’s got a nice, chewy texture, but the smell and the taste are just plain “off.” The odor and flavor are reminiscent of raw citrus and metal; that classic conundrum I’ve run into so often, even with the well-known organic/fair trade bars. The idea is good but the execution, not so much.

 

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The Chocolate Bar That Became A Doughnut

Donut, chocolate glazed

Donut, chocolate glazed (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

 

I’m no doughnut diva, and I’ll be the first to admit it. Those puffy (or cakey) rings of righteous goodness are all the rage, but my digestion won’t go there.

 

However, the better half loves them. So once a week, he gets his fix, courtesy of the local mom-and-pop-and daughter shop. They do great work, but I wondered: could a great chocolate bar mate with perfect (at least by local standards) doughnuts, and produce something interesting?

 

I approached the shop owners and offered to buy them a few bars to melt down and use as topping. My choice: Madécasse 44% with Arabica Coffee Nibs. Chocolate, coffee and a doughnut; I thought it could work, and the owners were game. Two weeks later, I saw the final creation: a chocolate cake doughnut, with a nice, shiny glaze of Madécasse. OK, make that chocolate, chocolate, coffee and doughnut. The result was not bad; the coffee flavor was not intense enough, but all that chocolate actually balanced quite well. I’d certainly invest in a few bars of something else with another flavoring (an intense berry, or perhaps a higher percentage cacao) and try again. After all, if it’s truly awful, I don’t get to eat them.

 

As for this bar and another from the same company:

 

  • The Madécasse Arabica bar on its own does have a distinct salty opening note, followed by chocolate and then the slight crunch of the coffee nibs. It’s a fun bar with a lot going on, including good shine and nice snap.
  • Madécasse 70% Cacao has more of the berry bang right off the bat. Very fruity, shiny and good snap, this is a bar that might be better suited for the doughnuts, due to the stronger flavor and higher cacao content.

 

 

 

 

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Castronovo Chocolate: Round 2

DSCN0902They are closing in on the May 1 opening date for the Stuart store, but Denise and Jim Castronovo still found time to introduce me to two more chocolates in their line: the 71% Criollo Cacao Peru, which I admit I’ve had stashed in the chocolate fridge, saving for the right tasting time, and their latest creation, the 72% Wild Amazon Cacao from Venezuela. When I stopped at their booth at the Palm Beach Gardens greenmarket last week to pick up the Venezuelan, I had the opportunity to talk the ears off of two very nice ladies who were looking over the Castronovo’s bars, trying to decide if they were worth a try.

I told them about my previous experiences with organic chocolate and explained why it was important to support a local artisan making quality product. They did buy, hopefully because they wanted to and not to make me shut up. No doubt they thought I was a company “plant” disguised as an ordinary citizen who just happened to wander into the market.

No shill here; just a happy consumer who’s pleased to find local organic chocolate that tastes like no other organic chocolate out there. You can find out more about the company at https://www.facebook.com/CastronovoChocolate.

As for the two new bars:

  • The Venezuela bar is sweet on the nose, but bitter on the bite. It’s got a nice snap, good shine and the cacao flavor is very pure, with a classic bittersweet “tang” on the end. You can easily enjoy the entire 1.25 ounce bar.
    The Peru bar has less tang, more mildness and a mouthful of fruit flavor, with strawberries very pronounced; so much so, you’re almost looking for seeds between your teeth. But no dental floss needed here. This is a great way to enjoy the best of both worlds.

 

 

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Game-Changing Organic Chocolate

DSCN0883-001DSCN0879-001I almost decided to walk by the little booth at the local farmer’s market. The banner announcing their organic chocolate was the reason.

If you’ve read my reviews, you know how I feel about what I’ve tasted. It’s not good. Musty, metallic and just plain “off” flavor has meant tossing most of the bars I’ve tried after one bite or so.

Until now, when I tried my farmer’s market find: Castronovo Chocolate, Florida’s first bean-to-bar chocolatier. Their products are organic, single-origin, come in a range of cacao contents and they taste like chocolate you want to keep eating.

Chocolate maker Denise Castronovo used to work in the geographic information technology business, but she’s always been an artist, primarily working in pottery. When the geotech business slowed down, she turned to another hands-on art form: chocolate. She and her husband Jim, the man behind the counter at the farmer’s market, have been dedicating themselves to finding the best beans from Central and South America, roasting them, winnowing them, conching and tempering the ingredients (cocoa beans, cane juice rather than sugar and cocoa butter) until they end up with 1.25-ounce squares.

Are we talking about an organic chocolate that finally makes the premium grade? Indeed, we are. I’ve tried two of the three bars I purchased, the 70% Bolivia Trinitario Cacao and 70% Dominican Republic Trinitario Cacao. The Dominican had good shine and snap, and the citrus flavor was distinctive, yet light. I immediately thought of grapefruit when I tasted it, but it’s gently applied, not slathered on. The Bolivian also shines and snaps, and tastes like a thick, rich cup of chocolate with a layer of coffee on the bottom; a mix of dessert and beverage.Since I taste early in the morning, common sense prevented me from finishing either bar. Desire made me want to consume them as breakfast.

Jim and Denise have some additional suggestions in the form of adult beverages to enhance the chocolate experience. They recommend either coffee or a Cabernet Sauvignon for the Bolivian, dark rum for the Dominican and gin or a Shiraz (Syrah) for the 71% Criollo Cacao Peru, which is my third bar, and the one I have yet to taste. Rest assured, I am looking forward to it.

At the moment, you can contact Denise and Jim through their Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/CastronovoChocolate) or if you come to South Florida on vacation, at either the Palm Beach Gardens greenmarket (http://www.pbgfl.com/content/76/144/default.aspx) or Fort Pierce greenmarket (http://www.fortpiercefarmersmarket.com/). A store is in the works, set to open May 1, at 555 Colorado Avenue, Stuart, FL. In the pursuit of high-quality chocolate, a store by the locals, for the locals (any anyone else who wants to visit or order) cannot come soon enough.

 
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Posted by on February 27, 2013 in Uncategorized

 

Can Inexpensive Chocolate Be Good?

Moser Roth - chocolate from Aldi

Moser Roth – chocolate from Aldi (Photo credit: lightsight)

I visited an Aldi store that opened recently near my office, and of course, I had to find out if there was any chocolate on the shelves.

If you know anything about the Germany-based Aldi chain, you know it’s a discount grocery store that carries very little in comparison to most American supermarkets. No floral, photo, pharmacy, fresh bakery, salad bar or deli counter. Just the basic, mostly private-label choices of produce, prepackaged breads, dairy, fresh meats, frozen seafood, paper products and health and beauty goods.

I’ve written about the chain for another online publication, but not about their chocolate. I found two bars to try, and decided for the price (less than $3 for each eight-ounce bar), it was worth the risk. If they were awful, it proves that money can and does buy the best. If they were at least acceptable, it proves that quality can come at a favorable price.

The two bars I tried, Choceur Dark 45% and Moser Roth 70% were tasted at the same time of day (7 a.m., which is my normal tasting time) on two different days.The Choceur Dark is from Austria, and the best thing I could say is that it was pleasantly OK. The bar had shine, but no snap. The flavor was a little tangy, not as sweet as you would expect this percentage, but there just wasn’t much to distinguish it from any drugstore bar.

The Moser Roth was closer to what you’d expect from a high-end bar. Bitter, with a decently deep chocolate flavor, but nothing that would make you buy more of it, even for the price. It’s not bad, just not very satisfying.

Both bars contain vanillin, the artificially synthesized vanilla flavor, which certainly didn’t help the flavor profile. If you’ve eaten the highest-quality chocolate for a while, even a small amount of the poor or middle-of-the-road stuff is unpleasant to the palate. I understand the need for products like these. It’s an opportunity for people of limited financial means or those with a genuine lack of chocolate knowledge to obtain the best. Both are a step up from the mass-produced morass. Not a very strong step, but a step nonetheless.

 

 
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Posted by on January 28, 2013 in Uncategorized

 

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Chocolate From The Land Of Fjords?

What’s the first thing you think of when someone mentions Iceland?

Ice, snow and cold? The reality: the climate is warmed by the Gulf Stream and is quite temperate. But it has it’s share of magnificent fjords, glaciers and permanently snow-capped mountains.

Large expanses of empty land? True to a great extent; 320,000 people living in 40,000 square miles make it the most sparsely populated country in Europe. And yes, Iceland is part of Europe, not the Arctic.

A tongue-twisting language with a lot of accents, umlauts and consonants? Well, Icelandic is a Germanic language, descended from Old Norse and Norwegian dialects.

But would you think about chocolate?

Nói Síríus thinks you should. The company (http://noi.is/English/About_Noi_Sirius), established in 1920, is the largest confectioner in Iceland, with 130 employees and a 30% total confectionery market share in that country. Most of their output involves sweets, such as the chocolate bars I found in one local shop (my Fresh Market store), chocolate-covered raisins, licorice, Easter eggs and jellied sweets, but they also import and distribute other products such as breakfast cereals.

If you’re concerned as I was about product quality, given the travel distance, don’t worry. I bought the four bars that were available: plain bars in the following percentages: 33%, 45%, 60% and 70%. The first surprise was opening the packages (For this tasting, I tried the 33% and 70%). Each package had two-150 gram (5.3 ounce) bars, which was a bonus for the price of $8 I paid for each package. Another bonus is the recipe printed on the outside of each package, in case you find you cannot simply eat all the contents.

The 33% should have been the lightest and creamiest, and indeed it was. Very smooth, slightly buttery and not very sweet, and sugar is listed as the first ingredient. It is a milk chocolate for adults, and it won’t send you running for a big glass of water afterwards. The 70% was slightly bitter with a slightly wood finish, but it’d definitely the kind of chocolate you’ll go back to.

The English-language version of the website is good when it comes to explaining what the company is about, but the product description is a little thin. There are online and brick-and-mortar sources, listed on the company’s website, where you can get Nói Síríus bars. Note that Whole Foods is listed as a source, but I have not encountered the product there. The Fresh Market (http://www.thefreshmarket.com/) is where I found my bars.And there is only one importer in the U.S., located in California (Nu-Breath Incorporated, 1-800-365-2177).

Sometimes, you get your chocolate wherever you can. Other times, you find it in the most unlikely places. Either way, it can be a good deal and great eating, along with some history. Pakka pér (thank you) Nói Síríus.

 
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Posted by on January 3, 2013 in Uncategorized

 

Sweet (Local) Find At The Greenmarket

I enjoy tasting chocolate from all over the world and learning about the international artisans who work from bean to bar, but I admit the happiest find is often the one closest to home.

At the local greenmarket, amid the crowds, commerce and intoxicating smells, I spotted a small white tent, simply decorated with white plates, bow-tied white and unpainted wooden boxes and chocolates. The name on the tent, J. Williams Chocolate Company Palm Beach, was not one I knew. And no wonder; the company started only a few weeks ago, based in a small West Palm Beach office.

Chocolatier Holly McCloskey isn’t the J. Williams behind the company. That would be her father, for whom she named the company. McCloskey works out of an office on Palm Beach Lakes Boulevard, and creates in a commissary kitchen nearby. Her signature piece is the Monkey Bar, available in dark or milk chocolate. It has pretzel bits, caramel, peanut butter and a bit of Himalayan sea salt. The bar would topple into too-sweet if not for the salt, but it’s perfectly balanced with this addition.

J. Williams offers a small but focused list of chocolates, including truffles (hazelnut, mocha and Habanero); bonbons (cheesecake, dulce de leche); milk chocolate almond or cashew bark and chocolate-covered almonds. You can buy by the piece, the quarter, half or full pound, and have them packaged in white gift boxes or the sleek blond wood boxes, which can be custom-decorated. Prices range from $8 to $20 for a half-pound of chocolates and $20 to $36.50 for a pound. McCloskey can also take orders for custom chocolates and specialized packaging. She is still working on her website, but can be reached at (561) 379-9058 or toll-free at (888) 658-5488.

And a few more recent bar samples:

Francois Pralus 75% Cuba Trinitario: Stored for a year, it still has snap, though there was some bloom. But the taste still rings like a bell. It’s sharp and earthy  and woodsy in a way that makes me wish I had not left it as the last bar in the NYC stash, or at least bought more than one.

Sweet Riot 70%: The beans are Latin American, the company is based in New York, the bar is made in Italy, and each square has twenty-one calories. The label is descriptive, colorful and fun. The bar is Fair Trade and certified organic. Yes, I got sucked into another organic bar. Blame the lure of the pretty packaging. And while this bar has that metallic kick all the organic bars seem to have, at least this one isn’t too pronounced. It’s lighter in cocoa flavor and sweeter than I expect a 70% to be, but it’s not bad.

Neuhaus 70% Extra Dark: Is it wrong to call a Belgian chocolate just ordinary? This one is. It’s not dark, or extra or strong, unlike what the label says. It’s smooth, on the sweet side, with no grainy texture. It’s pleasant, but lacks much character.

 

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The End Is Near: The NYC Stash Is (Almost) Gone

From Top Of The Rock to the end of my stash: I miss NY

A year ago, I brought nineteen bars of chocolate from New York City home in my backpack. I walked streets and rode subways, scrutinized store shelves, endured cold, rain and the TSA at Newark to get them here. Amazing how time goes by, yet the city, and in fact the entire east coast is facing another freak storm, like last year at this time (except this one is bigger, badder, colder, wetter; a superfreak version of the 2011 storm).

And they are nearly gone. Only two bars remain and one will be reviewed here.

It’s been a learning experience so far, to put it mildly. I’ve spoken to artisan chocolatiers and people who just love to eat the good stuff. I’ve faced blank stares from people who don’t understand why I do this, and big smiles from those who totally get it. I’ve had my requests for information ignored, and also been welcomed with open arms, all my questions answered and a taste or two of product along the way. I’ve found that just like in any other profession, you have some really good folks who want to share their passion, and some who think that anyone who is asking about their process is a spy out to ruin them. I’m learning not to take rejection personally, and cultivate the connections I make, while enjoying the new products along the way.

Along with some of the products I found at the recent Fort Lauderdale show, here’s the penultimate NYC stash bar:

  • La Maison du Chocolat Marao 60% Dark with Bursts of Roasted Almond: I loved it when I found this shop on a rainy Thursday afternoon in Manhattan. All decorated in shades of chocolate brown and serving cakes, coffee, teas and silver trays of chocolate, it was a chic reason to get out of weather. This bar is a little on the sweet side for me, and the almond addition doesn’t burst so much as melt away pleasantly, because the pieces are so small. But it’s a good bar, one you can share with a friend or a child who isn’t fond of bittersweet bars.
  • Cacao Art Palet d’ Or: from the Miami-base chocolatier (http://cacaoart.com/Chocolates5.html), this little work of art is so dense and dark it will actually make you shiver. And the bit of 24K gold leaf on top is just a bit of gilding on an already perfect lily.
  • Sweet Treats Brigadeiro Pistachio Truffle (http://sweettreatsbrigadeiro.com/): I used a knife to slice through this, just to see what the texture was like. The best way to describe it is “mud pie consistency.” The website refers to the inside of the truffle as “dough,” which is probably a bit more elegant. Suffice to say it’s somewhere between frosting and fudge, and the nuts are just there for fun. Their classic truffle, with a 70% shell covering the same center, is a bit closer to what truffle “purists” probably consider a “real” truffle. What can I say? It’s different in Brazil, but it’s not a bad thing. Sweeter, heavier and guaranteed to feed your fix with just one.
 

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Are You Smarter Because Of Chocolate?

Dr. Franz Messerli, a Swiss-born hypertension expert, has put forth a theory that is interesting to many and surprises not a single person whose daily habit includes at least a bite of high-quality chocolate:

Smart people very likely eat chocolate, and it may even help their cognitive function.

In a paper recently mentioned in Forbes and published by the New England Journal of Medicine, Messerli presented mathematical correlations between the number of Nobel prize winners per 10 million population and the consumption of chocolate per capita. He ran the numbers in 23 countries, and the results place Switzerland in first place for both the number of Nobel winners and per capita consumption: 31 winners and a per capita consumption of 13 kilograms (28 pounds, 10 ounces) per year. Sweden was second with the same number of winners as Switzerland but a much lower per capita consumption at 6 kg (13 pounds, three ounces) per year, and Denmark, in third place, got the numbers back to their expected levels: 25 winners and 9 kg (19 pounds,13 ounces) per person per year.

And the United States? A mid-pack runner at 10 Nobel winners and a per capita consumption of 5.5 kg (12 pounds, two ounces) per year per person. At the bottom of the list are China and Japan. If Sweden is excluded as the exception to the rule, the results are pretty linear and support the theory, which Messerli admits arriving at by observing the history and not by any type of random, controlled trials.

Is Messerli just having fun at the expense of the world’s geniuses? Or is there something more to his hypothesis? Is his paper one more piece of proof that chocolate is not only good for the body and the soul, it’s also good for the brain?

While you ponder that deep thought, consider these recent bars and truffles I’ve tasted recently:

  • Cafè Tasse Noir: A dark chocolate with a distinct vegetable taste. There’s a corn note at the beginning, which I’ve never experienced before, followed by the classic dark, strong Belgian chocolate. The bar has good snap and a slight wine aftertaste.
  • Christopher Elbow #1 Dark 70: This bar smells deep, snaps deep and it’s shiny. It’s a 70% that’s 100% excellent. It leans more towards the fruit/wine spectrum rather than the sweet side, This is a bar you can eat, use for confections or for fondue. You will savor it in any form you use it.
  • Cacao Art Limón Truffle: A truffle I found at last week’s Fort Lauderdale Festival of Chocolate. The expected rich pillow of smooth chocolate, and then the sudden hit of lime on your tastebuds like a just-mixed mojito. Is it a lime truffle with a chocolate chaser, or a chocolate truffle with a lime kick? Doesn’t matter – it’s good!

    Will these make you smarter? Or are are you already intelligent enough to eat a few a day?

 

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