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Category Archives: Gourmet chocolate

Chocolate (Price) Fix: Does It Matter?

English: A regular Hershey bar, out of the pac...

English: A regular Hershey bar, out of the package. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

A recent NBC News story reported that Hershey Canada, Mars Canada and Nestlé Canada have been charged with conspiracy to fix the price of chocolate in that country. Along with these companies, one of Canada’s largest retail and food distributing companies, ITWAL Ltd., has also come under scrutiny for anti-competitive behavior. The charges, which have been leveled at top-tier executives, are serious and carry prison and/or fine penalties.

Here’s the question: does price-fixing north of the border matter? Especially when it involves companies whose products many of us consider beneath us, even in a moment of confectionary desperation?

Yes, it matters.

For one thing, crime committed at any corporate level affects all of us. It affects the price we pay for what we need and want.

It’s an affront to anyone who actually obeys the law, and figures any high-flying executive making a seven-figure salary ought to be doing the same thing.

It makes your eyes roll to the back of your head when the company spokesperson says something like “we plan to vigorously defend ourselves against these charges” while stating on their website that the price-fixing allegations go back to 2007, all the while knowing that one of the companies involved is already cooperating with authorities in order to get lenient treatment in court.

It’s petty to artificially play with the price of chocolate. It’s not like the good stuff isn’t already pricey enough. You’re not fooling any of us by raising the price of the cheap crap, anyway. True connoisseurs know better.

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And speaking of the good stuff: two bars I found in Toronto. Neither Canadian, but you’ll love them anyway:

Valrhona El Pedregal Porcelana 64%: The name of this bar sounds impressive, pedigreed and regal. And it smells the same way even before you open it. This is an Oh, My! bar. Period. Floral, fruit, wine and cocoa are all balanced perfectly. This is the bar that makes other bars jealous.

Valrhona Ampamakia 64%: A single plantation bar that’s singular in its excellence. What it lacks in the floral and wine notes of El Pedregal, it makes up for in cocoa. Considering that both are 64%, this one is sweeter, with more bitter notes and a slight lemon ting.

 

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We Have Chocolate; Does It Need To Be Healthier?

A chocolate bar and melted chocolate. Chocolat...

A chocolate bar and melted chocolate. Chocolate is made from the cocoa bean, which is a natural source of theobromine. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

A recent Reuters News article discussed the latest in food niche marketing: healthier chocolate.

Lest you think dark plain chocolate, with the occasional addition of nuts, dried fruit or coffee nibs is healthy enough, think again. The latest means of improving the average bar includes adding probiotics, removing fat, sugar and gluten and altering the packaging (fewer pieces in the package does lower the calorie count, it’s true).

The appetite for these so-called “alternative sweets” is growing, as consumers pay attention to their waistlines and heed the calls from their doctors to watch their sugar and fat intake, lest they fall prey to heart disease and/or diabetes, both leading causes of death around the world.

But here’s the question: how much chocolate are we eating, compared to other highly processed foods and beverages, that we need the chocolate alternatives that much? If you are consuming so much chocolate, day after day, that you are heading down the rocky road to certain death just because of it, you’re not merely eating chocolate. You’re consumed and obsessed by the idea of consuming a food product beyond all reason. The chocolate isn’t your problem. The out-of-control consumption, however, could be the issue.

I’m not saying don’t try one of the alternative bars, just to give it a fair shot. You may even like it. But considering the already known benefits of dark chocolate, there may not be a need to get all virtuous about your newfound snack. As Maria Mogelonsky of global market research firm Mintel says in the article, “…people don’t eat chocolate to feel well, they eat it to feel good…the last thing on most chocolate eaters’ minds is health.”

Isn’t it the truth?

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And speaking of chocolate bars, of course I have two more tested from the Toronto stash:

Roshen Classic Brut 78% (Ukraine): Sexiest packaging I’ve seen in a while: black and gold outside and silver inside sleeve. And this percentage is not one commonly seen in the U.S. It provides a good balance of sweet and bitter, with some wood notes.

1848 Noir Subil 64% (France): The smell is as sweet as commercial baking chocolate, but it gets better on tasting. Very fruity on the opening notes, and mellows out after that. Good cacao flavor, with a hint of lemon.

 

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China Wants Our Chocolate?

If you’ve been paying attention to the business news in any publication, blog or newscast, you know that in terms of consumerism, China is big. And China is getting bigger. In a country of 1.3 billion people, there are now over one million millionaires, and they like the good life. They play golf, maintain multiple bank accounts, buy electronics and fine jewelry and travel internationally. Oh, and they are interested in chocolate. Not ravenously, obsessively interested just yet. But it’s coming. The signs are there, including the World Chocolate Wonderland in Shanghai, opened in 2011, where everything from Ming-era vases to the Qin Shi Huang Terra Cotta Army is crafted in chocolate,

Lawrence Allen, a business leader, author and former executive with both Hershey and Nestlé, wrote a fascinating book on chocolate and the Chinese; specifically, the almost limitless market offered in this vast country versus how to market a product so loved in so much of the rest of the world to a population virtually unaware of its existence until the mid 1990s. The book, Chocolate Fortunes: The Battle for the Hearts, Minds and Wallets of China’s Consumers (AMACOM, 2009) is not merely how the “Big Five” confectioners brought their products to Chinese consumers, who are certainly an eager and interested population. It’s about formulating new products to cater to their specific tastes, managing the minutiae of government regulations, building and staffing new factories, distribution strategies, pricing and ultimately learning (or not) that in order to manage expectations in such a huge new market, the old strategies were often of little or no use. It was not simply a matter of throwing a big-money, mass marketing campaign out there, hoping it would stick with consumers. China is not just big, it’s changing very fast, as Allen reminds us:

Despite China’s radical transformation over the past three decades, it is still a work in progress. In the last few decades there has been a historic mass economic migration in terms of consumer power that has made hundreds of millions of Chinese consumers physically, culturally, and financially accessible to multinational companies. As China’s distribution infrastructure and quality retail environments continue to penetrate ever deeper into the country, with each new air-conditioned supermarket that opens, tens of thousands of people will suddenly have access to chocolate for the first time. As this process continues, even if 20 million of China’s near billion inaccessible consumers emerge each year to become accessible consumers, it will take another half-century for all of China’s citizens to make this passage.”

If you want to find out more about where chocolate is (literally) going next, Allen’s book charts that path. He keeps the technical and economic jargon simple and tells the story from an insider’s view, with an eye towards keeping the reader who loves all things either chocolate or Chinese interested.

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And speaking of where chocolate has been: two more from my Canadian stash:

72% Rogers Darker Chocolate: “Darker” meaning darker than some of the other bars in their line. This is pure Canadian kitsch, from the raised maple leaf on alternating squares to the fact that it’s made in Canada. It’s a very sweet bar (sugar is the second ingredient) with good snap  and a somewhat acidic finish. It’s not life-changing, but it is a respectable bar.

Dolfin 70%: This bar from Belgium isn’t just contained in the usual rip-open plastic. It’s encased in a classy envelope-style plastic wrap as well. Presentation means everything and takes nothing away from this slightly bitter beauty, which hits all the right notes of plum, citrus and earth.

 

 

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Toronto Travel: Record-Breaking Twenty Bars!

Chocolate on top of chocolate: taking a hot cocoa break at Soma Chocolatier, Toronto.

Chocolate on top of chocolate: taking a hot cocoa break at Soma Chocolatier, Toronto.

And you thought starting this blog with 19 chocolate bars from New York City was a little absurd. I brought home 20 bars from Toronto.

Talk about leaving no bean behind.

We did a lot of walking in our week away. Between the poutine, the peameal bacon (neither of which I was overly fond of), the pastries (which were excellent, thanks to the many small French bakeries) and the food of a dozen ethnic neighborhoods, we had no choice. Toronto boasts a considerable immigrant population, with more than half its residents born outside of Canada, and 20 percent of all of Canada’s immigrants residing here. Over 140 different languages are spoken in Toronto, and the city’s varied cuisines reflect the newcomers’ tastes. Luckily for the chocophile, this means never having trouble finding a new or favorite dessert, bar or beverage. I found new-to-me brands in upscale markets, in grocery and drug stores and in specialty shops such as bookstores and the outrageous Soma Chocolatier, a spot that came highly recommended, and turned out to be a high point of the trip. I’ll be reviewing them over the next few months, starting with two bars:

Valrhona Abinao Puissant & Tannique ((Powerful and Tannic) 85%: The box is dark. The wrapper inside the box is dark. The second you open the box, you smell the darkness. Powerful, indeed. And you are drawn to this bar, done as well as everything Valrhona does. It’s rich, strong, not as bitter as you would think 85% would be. Fruity and woody with a perfect balance of cacao and sugar.

Camino Fair Trade Organic 55%: This ought to be better, given that it’s from Switzerland and despite the fact that it’s organic. It’s got a nice, chewy texture, but the smell and the taste are just plain “off.” The odor and flavor are reminiscent of raw citrus and metal; that classic conundrum I’ve run into so often, even with the well-known organic/fair trade bars. The idea is good but the execution, not so much.

 

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The Chocolate Bar That Became A Doughnut

Donut, chocolate glazed

Donut, chocolate glazed (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

 

I’m no doughnut diva, and I’ll be the first to admit it. Those puffy (or cakey) rings of righteous goodness are all the rage, but my digestion won’t go there.

 

However, the better half loves them. So once a week, he gets his fix, courtesy of the local mom-and-pop-and daughter shop. They do great work, but I wondered: could a great chocolate bar mate with perfect (at least by local standards) doughnuts, and produce something interesting?

 

I approached the shop owners and offered to buy them a few bars to melt down and use as topping. My choice: Madécasse 44% with Arabica Coffee Nibs. Chocolate, coffee and a doughnut; I thought it could work, and the owners were game. Two weeks later, I saw the final creation: a chocolate cake doughnut, with a nice, shiny glaze of Madécasse. OK, make that chocolate, chocolate, coffee and doughnut. The result was not bad; the coffee flavor was not intense enough, but all that chocolate actually balanced quite well. I’d certainly invest in a few bars of something else with another flavoring (an intense berry, or perhaps a higher percentage cacao) and try again. After all, if it’s truly awful, I don’t get to eat them.

 

As for this bar and another from the same company:

 

  • The Madécasse Arabica bar on its own does have a distinct salty opening note, followed by chocolate and then the slight crunch of the coffee nibs. It’s a fun bar with a lot going on, including good shine and nice snap.
  • Madécasse 70% Cacao has more of the berry bang right off the bat. Very fruity, shiny and good snap, this is a bar that might be better suited for the doughnuts, due to the stronger flavor and higher cacao content.

 

 

 

 

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Castronovo Chocolate: Round 2

DSCN0902They are closing in on the May 1 opening date for the Stuart store, but Denise and Jim Castronovo still found time to introduce me to two more chocolates in their line: the 71% Criollo Cacao Peru, which I admit I’ve had stashed in the chocolate fridge, saving for the right tasting time, and their latest creation, the 72% Wild Amazon Cacao from Venezuela. When I stopped at their booth at the Palm Beach Gardens greenmarket last week to pick up the Venezuelan, I had the opportunity to talk the ears off of two very nice ladies who were looking over the Castronovo’s bars, trying to decide if they were worth a try.

I told them about my previous experiences with organic chocolate and explained why it was important to support a local artisan making quality product. They did buy, hopefully because they wanted to and not to make me shut up. No doubt they thought I was a company “plant” disguised as an ordinary citizen who just happened to wander into the market.

No shill here; just a happy consumer who’s pleased to find local organic chocolate that tastes like no other organic chocolate out there. You can find out more about the company at https://www.facebook.com/CastronovoChocolate.

As for the two new bars:

  • The Venezuela bar is sweet on the nose, but bitter on the bite. It’s got a nice snap, good shine and the cacao flavor is very pure, with a classic bittersweet “tang” on the end. You can easily enjoy the entire 1.25 ounce bar.
    The Peru bar has less tang, more mildness and a mouthful of fruit flavor, with strawberries very pronounced; so much so, you’re almost looking for seeds between your teeth. But no dental floss needed here. This is a great way to enjoy the best of both worlds.

 

 

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Sweet (Local) Find At The Greenmarket

I enjoy tasting chocolate from all over the world and learning about the international artisans who work from bean to bar, but I admit the happiest find is often the one closest to home.

At the local greenmarket, amid the crowds, commerce and intoxicating smells, I spotted a small white tent, simply decorated with white plates, bow-tied white and unpainted wooden boxes and chocolates. The name on the tent, J. Williams Chocolate Company Palm Beach, was not one I knew. And no wonder; the company started only a few weeks ago, based in a small West Palm Beach office.

Chocolatier Holly McCloskey isn’t the J. Williams behind the company. That would be her father, for whom she named the company. McCloskey works out of an office on Palm Beach Lakes Boulevard, and creates in a commissary kitchen nearby. Her signature piece is the Monkey Bar, available in dark or milk chocolate. It has pretzel bits, caramel, peanut butter and a bit of Himalayan sea salt. The bar would topple into too-sweet if not for the salt, but it’s perfectly balanced with this addition.

J. Williams offers a small but focused list of chocolates, including truffles (hazelnut, mocha and Habanero); bonbons (cheesecake, dulce de leche); milk chocolate almond or cashew bark and chocolate-covered almonds. You can buy by the piece, the quarter, half or full pound, and have them packaged in white gift boxes or the sleek blond wood boxes, which can be custom-decorated. Prices range from $8 to $20 for a half-pound of chocolates and $20 to $36.50 for a pound. McCloskey can also take orders for custom chocolates and specialized packaging. She is still working on her website, but can be reached at (561) 379-9058 or toll-free at (888) 658-5488.

And a few more recent bar samples:

Francois Pralus 75% Cuba Trinitario: Stored for a year, it still has snap, though there was some bloom. But the taste still rings like a bell. It’s sharp and earthy  and woodsy in a way that makes me wish I had not left it as the last bar in the NYC stash, or at least bought more than one.

Sweet Riot 70%: The beans are Latin American, the company is based in New York, the bar is made in Italy, and each square has twenty-one calories. The label is descriptive, colorful and fun. The bar is Fair Trade and certified organic. Yes, I got sucked into another organic bar. Blame the lure of the pretty packaging. And while this bar has that metallic kick all the organic bars seem to have, at least this one isn’t too pronounced. It’s lighter in cocoa flavor and sweeter than I expect a 70% to be, but it’s not bad.

Neuhaus 70% Extra Dark: Is it wrong to call a Belgian chocolate just ordinary? This one is. It’s not dark, or extra or strong, unlike what the label says. It’s smooth, on the sweet side, with no grainy texture. It’s pleasant, but lacks much character.

 

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The End Is Near: The NYC Stash Is (Almost) Gone

From Top Of The Rock to the end of my stash: I miss NY

A year ago, I brought nineteen bars of chocolate from New York City home in my backpack. I walked streets and rode subways, scrutinized store shelves, endured cold, rain and the TSA at Newark to get them here. Amazing how time goes by, yet the city, and in fact the entire east coast is facing another freak storm, like last year at this time (except this one is bigger, badder, colder, wetter; a superfreak version of the 2011 storm).

And they are nearly gone. Only two bars remain and one will be reviewed here.

It’s been a learning experience so far, to put it mildly. I’ve spoken to artisan chocolatiers and people who just love to eat the good stuff. I’ve faced blank stares from people who don’t understand why I do this, and big smiles from those who totally get it. I’ve had my requests for information ignored, and also been welcomed with open arms, all my questions answered and a taste or two of product along the way. I’ve found that just like in any other profession, you have some really good folks who want to share their passion, and some who think that anyone who is asking about their process is a spy out to ruin them. I’m learning not to take rejection personally, and cultivate the connections I make, while enjoying the new products along the way.

Along with some of the products I found at the recent Fort Lauderdale show, here’s the penultimate NYC stash bar:

  • La Maison du Chocolat Marao 60% Dark with Bursts of Roasted Almond: I loved it when I found this shop on a rainy Thursday afternoon in Manhattan. All decorated in shades of chocolate brown and serving cakes, coffee, teas and silver trays of chocolate, it was a chic reason to get out of weather. This bar is a little on the sweet side for me, and the almond addition doesn’t burst so much as melt away pleasantly, because the pieces are so small. But it’s a good bar, one you can share with a friend or a child who isn’t fond of bittersweet bars.
  • Cacao Art Palet d’ Or: from the Miami-base chocolatier (http://cacaoart.com/Chocolates5.html), this little work of art is so dense and dark it will actually make you shiver. And the bit of 24K gold leaf on top is just a bit of gilding on an already perfect lily.
  • Sweet Treats Brigadeiro Pistachio Truffle (http://sweettreatsbrigadeiro.com/): I used a knife to slice through this, just to see what the texture was like. The best way to describe it is “mud pie consistency.” The website refers to the inside of the truffle as “dough,” which is probably a bit more elegant. Suffice to say it’s somewhere between frosting and fudge, and the nuts are just there for fun. Their classic truffle, with a 70% shell covering the same center, is a bit closer to what truffle “purists” probably consider a “real” truffle. What can I say? It’s different in Brazil, but it’s not a bad thing. Sweeter, heavier and guaranteed to feed your fix with just one.
 

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Are You Smarter Because Of Chocolate?

Dr. Franz Messerli, a Swiss-born hypertension expert, has put forth a theory that is interesting to many and surprises not a single person whose daily habit includes at least a bite of high-quality chocolate:

Smart people very likely eat chocolate, and it may even help their cognitive function.

In a paper recently mentioned in Forbes and published by the New England Journal of Medicine, Messerli presented mathematical correlations between the number of Nobel prize winners per 10 million population and the consumption of chocolate per capita. He ran the numbers in 23 countries, and the results place Switzerland in first place for both the number of Nobel winners and per capita consumption: 31 winners and a per capita consumption of 13 kilograms (28 pounds, 10 ounces) per year. Sweden was second with the same number of winners as Switzerland but a much lower per capita consumption at 6 kg (13 pounds, three ounces) per year, and Denmark, in third place, got the numbers back to their expected levels: 25 winners and 9 kg (19 pounds,13 ounces) per person per year.

And the United States? A mid-pack runner at 10 Nobel winners and a per capita consumption of 5.5 kg (12 pounds, two ounces) per year per person. At the bottom of the list are China and Japan. If Sweden is excluded as the exception to the rule, the results are pretty linear and support the theory, which Messerli admits arriving at by observing the history and not by any type of random, controlled trials.

Is Messerli just having fun at the expense of the world’s geniuses? Or is there something more to his hypothesis? Is his paper one more piece of proof that chocolate is not only good for the body and the soul, it’s also good for the brain?

While you ponder that deep thought, consider these recent bars and truffles I’ve tasted recently:

  • Cafè Tasse Noir: A dark chocolate with a distinct vegetable taste. There’s a corn note at the beginning, which I’ve never experienced before, followed by the classic dark, strong Belgian chocolate. The bar has good snap and a slight wine aftertaste.
  • Christopher Elbow #1 Dark 70: This bar smells deep, snaps deep and it’s shiny. It’s a 70% that’s 100% excellent. It leans more towards the fruit/wine spectrum rather than the sweet side, This is a bar you can eat, use for confections or for fondue. You will savor it in any form you use it.
  • Cacao Art Limón Truffle: A truffle I found at last week’s Fort Lauderdale Festival of Chocolate. The expected rich pillow of smooth chocolate, and then the sudden hit of lime on your tastebuds like a just-mixed mojito. Is it a lime truffle with a chocolate chaser, or a chocolate truffle with a lime kick? Doesn’t matter – it’s good!

    Will these make you smarter? Or are are you already intelligent enough to eat a few a day?

 

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Fine Art Of Chocolate Outshines Festival Kitsch

Susana and Isabel of Miami’s Cacao Art

This weekend’s Fort Lauderdale Festival of Chocolate was mostly designed to attract the average chocolate consumer – and apparently, as many of their kids as possible. There were plenty of chocolate cooking demos, chocolate and wine pairings, eating contests and the joy of festival goers digging into Nutella crepes, drinking chocolate-scented coffee and buying chocolate-themed mugs, bags and hair accessories.

But scattered around the exhibition floor, there were the artisan confectioners. The people who work long hours in shared production kitchens, often after working a “real” job, to create small-batch products they believe in – and want you to try just once, because they know you’ll come back for more.

Here’s an introduction to the cacao crafters from this weekend’s show:

Paula Telles recently arrived in Miami Beach by way of Manhattan’s Chelsea district, bringing her Brazilian truffle company, Brigadeiro Gourmet, with her. Her booth attracted dozens of photographers, thanks to the jewel-box layout of truffles placed on fine glass and china. A “brigadeiro” is the Brazilian version of a truffle; it’s smaller, with a similar texture, and flavored with everything from nuts to tropical fruits to the potent cachaça, Brazil’s most famous alcoholic beverage. You can follow the company on Facebook:http://www.facebook.com/sweettreatsbrigadeiro#!/sweettreatsbrigadeiro/info.

Isabel Garcia and Susana Nevett of Cacao Art (blog: http://www.cacaoart.com/blog/) are based in Miami, with very literal ties to Venezuela. It’s where the cacao to make their chocolates is sourced and their sister company, Latitud 10 Chocolates, is based in Caracas. This duo is creating delicate, dark chocolates with fillings such as passion fruit, house-made marshmallow, caramel, lime, dulce de leche and honey and cardamom. Their distinctive packaging, all in shades of brown, speaks of both their seriousness and their desire to simply show off exquisite product.

Making the cross-state trip is Justin Schaffer of Irresistible Confections (http://www.irresistibleconfections.com/) out of Fort Myers. A young man who looks more college student than experienced chocolatier, his line includes fantastically flavored and tinted molded truffles, filled with peanut butter, fruit and more chocolate and artfully gilded and shaded with contrasting colors, making the final results look like something you would collect before you would consider eating. Some of Schaffer’s most beautiful creations are the custom corporate orders: he can do perfectly detailed corporate logos on his chocolates that will bring a company the best kind of notice.

Hilary Saporta and her husband Bernie Diaz are a Flair For Fudge (http://www.shop.aflairforfudge.com/) and she has a flair for telling you all about it. A former Harley Davidson marketing and promotions director who lost her job two years ago, she made fudge for fun and gave it to friends. Those friends never complained, unless a batch failed to arrive. After the job loss, Saporta decided to turn the hobby into a next life, and the Fort Lauderdale-based company makes fifteen standard flavors. Not that the word “standard” exactly applies here: wasabi ginger, black bean, guava and cream cheese and Cuban coffee toffee are examples of Saporta’s normal flavor output. Definitely not your average Grandma’s goodie, this is fudge that’s innovative and fun.

Eric Newman of The Sweet Tooth (http://www.thesweettooth.com/) thought his daughter should wear a chocolate dress for a recent show. So he made her one. Turns out, he did a pretty good job, because the dress lasted about three hours before meltdown began. He can make one for you as well, along with matching shoes and a purse. Or he can keep it simple and make up a gift basket filled with chocolate-dipped and decorated treats for any occasion from a birthday to a wedding to Passover (think of a Seder plate done in chocolate; no one will skip the bitter herb or toss the shank bone to the dog). The novelty chocolates are fun, and there are dark bars with nuts and tropical fruits for the grownups to enjoy, too.

And back to West Palm Beach’s Olive Tap (http://www.theolivetap.com/wpb/index.php) for…chocolate balsamics? Sounds like vinegar and chocolate don’t go together, but then again, why not? The sweet and sharp do balance one another quite well. The chocolate cherry balsamic, mocha fudge balsamic and chocolate marshmallow balsamic are three examples of what the store carries. Each is a small, sweet shot that doesn’t overwhelm with either the vinegar or the sugar elements. They add about 20 calories per tablespoon, and work wonderfully as dessert sauces.

And yes, Shocolaate’s (http://www.shocolaate.com/) mother/daughter team of Cristina Vives and Diana Pace were here and busy, and yes, Cristina had to go back to the shop and make more truffles for the Sunday show. By noon Sunday, her voice was going as fast as her product, which included the Star of India, coffee truffles, white chocolate coconut, marzipan and the most-popular S’mores truffles.

While I was hoping to make it to the New York Chocolate Show, it’s not looking like a go for this year. But the Fort Lauderdale Festival was a good start. Meeting mostly local artisans and finding out why they do what they do was the whole point of this trip. Note that all of the artisans mentioned here ship nationwide and do custom orders, and most ship internationally. If you like what you’ve read, tell me, but even more important, contact them, and buy. Keep buying the best, and there will always be someone out there willing to create the best.

 

 

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