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Bean To Bar And Open For Business

14 Aug
Dark and white chocolate pops make an edible bouquet.

Dark and white chocolate pops make an edible bouquet.

Denise Castronovo at work, making labels and watching the kitchen.

Denise Castronovo at work, making labels and watching the kitchen.

Beans and bars on display near the door of Castronovo Chocolates.

Beans and bars on display near the door of Castronovo Chocolates.

After weeks of meeting the Castronovo Chocolates line at local greenmarkets, the products finally have a permanent place to call home.

Florida‘s only bean-to-bar producer has opened a shop in the town of Stuart, located in Martin County, about 30 miles north of West Palm Beach. Located in a renovated shopping center just of U.S. Highway 1, chocolate maker Denise Castronovo presides, roasting cacao beans,winnowing, grinding, conching, pouring, forming and labeling the bars and other treats offered in this combined factory/store/tasting room.

When you enter, it’s hard to ignore the smell. The roasty, woodsy scent is so dense, it settles on and around you, and you can almost eat it. The colors of the floor and walls are gradations of brown and beige, which should seem like too much of a good thing in a chocolate store – but it works. The work area is bright, spacious and open, and customers are welcome to watch the process that is the art of fine chocolate creation.

Denise’s fascination with her subject is pretty straightforward. “There are so many flavor notes in chocolate; I’m always interested to find out what’s next, what’s new and what we can discover,” she says. Castronovo likes to remind those new to chocolate tasting that while wine has about 200 flavor notes, fine chocolate has 600 flavor notes. Denise and her husband Jim buy beans in small batches from farmers they know personally, traveling to the regions where the beans are grown, meeting the producers and keeping anything artificial out of their products. Castronovo Chocolates are soy, gluten and emulsifier-free.

Denise has an easy but serious way with customers as she explains the nuances and subtle notes of the examples offered on the shop’s tasting plate. This is business, art and science for her, yet she is wants the experience to be equal opportunity for everyone who comes in.

Castronovo Chocolates is not remotely your average candy experience. In addition to their signature bars and tasting plates, there are hot and cold beverages, lollipops, cacao nibs and truffles. This is an intelligent and elegant chocolate experience that takes up to a week to go from bean to bar. It’s a slow and labor-intensive process, because there’s no way to reach this level of excellence if you plan to cut corners or push the process.

Current information on Castronovo Chocolates can also be found on their Facebook page.

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And speaking of the subject, this is a new bar from the Castronovos; made from beans grown in just three remote villages in Venezuela: Amazonas 72%:

Talk about a bar that tastes as rare as the source itself. I understand from Jim that just getting to these three villages is quite a trek. But the cacao that comes out results in a bar that’s worth a trip. Slightly sweet, with a slight note of walnuts. I admit I cannot always finish a Castronovo bar, because most selections are very rich for one sitting. This one is different. I could eat all of it and be unwilling to share any of it.

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